I've arrived!

Jet lag is a cruel beast. I've been in Nepal for two days and fatigue has set in. My body clock has no idea what time it is. I want to sleep at two in the afternoon and wake a 4AM. Actually, that's not much different than my normal insomniac tendencies, but it's 5:30 in the morning now and I'm wide awake. I can see the grey light of morning seeping through the window getting lighter as I write. Car horns are slowly beginning to beep like alarms and the quiet of night it dissipating. What better to do than write an entry...

I saw bodies burning next to a river yesterday. We have a few days in Kathmandu before we head to the clinic and sightseeing is the objective. Andrew, the leader of the group and founder of the Acupuncture Relief Project, is serving as our tour guide. He took us to Pashupatinath Temple. The temple is on the banks of the Bagmati River, which eventually feeds into the Ganges, the holy fiver. Along the river are funeral ghats, platforms where bodies are burned. This is a Hindu temple and according to their belief, reincarnation is constant. The soul lives forever but the body is merely a vessel for this lifetime. Therefore, when one dies the body is nothing and burned the day it dies. Death is as honored, acknowledged and ceremonious as life. When someone in the family dies, a male in the family must light the initial spark of the fire and also must offer a small bone from the departed to the river before the ashes are dumped. Women are not usually present, I was told this was because up until the 70s wives were still burned along side their husbands, whether they wanted to die or not. I'd avoid the ghats too.

On the opposite side of the river were temples devoted to fertility. This speaks to the close relationship Nepal has with life and death. I wish my culture would honor death in a similar manner, then perhaps I wouldn't fear it as much as I do. I feel we avoid the inevitable, hide it and try to pretend it didn't happen. Sometimes funerals feel like just another task to take care of, instead of an honoring of what was lost. Previous to arriving here I decided this trip would be somewhat devoted to understanding my own relationship with death. I don't necessarily fear my own death, I've somehow maintained the ridiculous idea that I'm immortal, which translates to a lack of acknowledgement of my own mortality. Instead I fear the death of loved ones and my inability to deal. My grandmother passed last year, this was the first close relative I've lost, which is rare for someone 30 years old. Since then I've had perhaps an irrational fear of others dying. I'm not ready. I like things as they are. I believe this life isn't all there is and reincarnation is definite, but I do believe the relationship I have with everyone in this lifetime is all there is until the next one. The void left behind when someone is no longer alive feels vast and empty. It's something I cannot control, which means I have no concept of how to handle it. Acceptance and surrender are probably required, but until then I'll fear what will come no matter how prepared I am.

The temple we visited is a pilgrimage site form Hindus and also a world heritage site. We weren't allowed in the larger temple, that is reserved for Hindus only, but the top is gilded in gold and there a jewels inside, which armored guards monitor. Animals are sacrificed, regularly, except cows. We had a local tour guide tell us many things, most of which I cannot regurgitate, so please take a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pashupatinath_Temple.

Today we are going to places I visited last time I was in Nepal- the Monkey Temple, AKA the Swayambhunath Temple, and Durbar Square. Feel free to google, because I have no information about them, only pictures from a previous visit.

I've posted pictures on my Facebook page, I am trying to use a tablet while I am here and it's proving a challenge to post photos with this blog, so please look there and friend me if you are not able to see them. https://www.facebook.com/terry.atchley/media_set?set=a.916838551235.1073741829.20402772&type=3

This is it.

I have a favorite movie- Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. I love it to point of memorizing lines, a habit making it annoying to watch with me. I mention this because there is a moment that truly sealed the deal for me. The general plot, for those who haven't seen it, is the story of a breakup. Joel and Clementine have a tumultuous relationship and after a torrid fight, they break up. Clementine participates in a procedure that erases every memory she has of Joel. Subsequently, Joel finds out what she did and wants the same procedure preformed on him. Long story short, the memories are erased in reverse order form the drunken fight leading to the breakup to the initial meeting. Half way through, Joel trudges through the good and the bad memories. In the end, he no longer wants to erase Clementine even though he is heartbroken the memories are cherished. This is where my favorite part comes into play.

It is the initial moment Joel meets Clementine. In a shift from how the meeting actually occured, the present Clementine tells Joel:

Clementine: This is it, Joel. It's going to be gone soon.
Joel: I know.
Clementine: What do we do?
Joel: Enjoy it.

I say this because- this is it. I'm on my way and not matter what happens, I better enjoy. It'll all be over too soon and I'll be left with memories, photos and possibly a parasite (but let's hope not).

I'm currently flying to L.A. for my first of two layovers. I'll be traveling for almost 24-hours, from Portland to Los Angeles, Seoul and, lastly, Kathmandu. I've spent months preparing for this trip. Trying my best to complete every meticulous detail of every aspect of my life. Six months away is something I never thought twice about. No big deal, catch you on the flip side with awesome stories and pictures most who weren't there will never want to see. But this time is different, more challenging and heart-wrenching. Maybe it's because I've experienced a great deal of loss and transition this year. Maybe it's because I'm getting too damn old to drop everything and leave. Maybe it's because I have many reasons to stay. Either way, I can honestly say I am excited for the experience and terrified of what I am leaving behind. I miss my cat. I miss my boyfriend. I miss my friends. I miss my family. I have missed these things for weeks before I even left. I hope that mitigates the longing while I am away.

I can say I feel lighter now that I am on the plane. If it's not done, it's not getting done. I tried my best to contact everyone so I could to tell them goodbye and if I missed you, I'm sorry. I finally have no distractions. No chances of getting one last little task done. I can devote all my attention to what is ahead of me. Treating patients. Coming up with lesson plans. Trekking. Helping people. Fantasizing about spending my birthday, which is several months away, on a beach or surrounded by monkeys. I'm off, let the adventure begin. This is it! Enjoy!

Nom Nom Nom...

I have only $1,000 left to raise!! Please consider making a donation or spreading the word!! Thanks everyone! 

Donate HERE!
Or you can mail donations:
Acupuncture Relief Project
C/O Terry Atchley
925 NW Hoyt St. #523
Portland, OR 97209


I've been dreaming of food lately. Actually, not only dreaming- I'm becoming a glutton. Yep, that's right, glutton. It's not a nice term, when I hear the word I picture Jabba the Hutt or that dead guy from the movie Seven. Gross. But seriously, I've been imbibing in every single craving. Cheeseburger? Don't mind if I do! Pizza? Hell yeah. Anything fried? Give it to me! I am an eating machine. Mom says I'm storing up, which I can't completely deny. I won't have access to any typical American food in Asia. Hell, I'm pretty sure I'll avoid meat while I'm there (keep reading for an anecdote to further the obvious reasons why meat might be avoided in a hot country without refrigeration). Anyway, after three years of learning all facets of health, including dietary changes, I find myself feeling physically gross and mentally beating myself up for eating poorly. I'm in a downward spiral of deliciously unhealthy food and I can't stop! Surrender is the first step in recovery, therefore, I surrender to the food gods. I will eat what I want for this week, then pull it together, just one more plate of fois gras, I promise. I can quit any time...

Action shot of poopy tail slap.

Post poopy face slap.

Last time I was in Nepal I saw a goat slaughtered. I didn't want to, but it's not something one can look away from once it started. The orphanage had goats, a water buffalo with her baby, and an anorexic looking cow. The water buffalo produced milk and I was able to milk it, once, until her poop covered tail slapped me in the face. Never again. I also had the fortune of seeing the cow artificially inseminated. 


I digress, back to the goat story- I'm not sure why the orphanage had so many goats and while I was there five more goats were born. They were adorable and spastic. I just wanted to cuddle with them as though they were kittens, but goats are not cuddlers and they're bony. For a week, Laxmi, the president of the orphanage, would point to one particular goat and say, "that's the one" and make a motion of slitting her throat. I didn't get it. I also didn't get the point of all the goats. They were herded out each morning to the recently harvested rice paddies and allowed to eat all day. They made a ton of noise, used every inch of the property as a personal toilet and really didn't contribute back. Well, that one poor lil' guy did.

At the end of one of the festivals there is a tradition of slaughtering a castrated male goat. I'm not sure why, but better to appease the gods than leave them angry. It is also one of the only times during the year that people eat meat. It was very ritualized and humane. The goat was honored, thanked and beheaded in one foul swoop. The fur was mostly removed with boiling water and it looked like every single inch of the body was used in a curry dish, with the exception of the legs. The legs were left out in the sun to dry into some type of jerky.

At one point, prior to arriving in Asia, I considered myself a moderately adventurous eater. Well, I'm not. Textures get to me. This dish was particularly chewy and there were bits of meat with skin and fur still on it covered in curry. I couldn't handle it. I felt myself gagging. Not finishing a plate seemed much too rude, especially given the sacred nature of the meal. I ate as much as I could, then tried to pass the rest off to the person I was traveling with. When that didn't fly, I tried in the most stealth manner to dump the rest in the catfish pond behind the squat toilets. Side note, they had a catfish pond. I think the only purpose was to dump certain meat related food scraps. Vegetarian food scraps went to feeding the goats, buffalo and cow. 

The goat slaughter was traumatic and sad. I can't handle meeting my food before I eat it. If someone were to kill and eat me, I certainly wouldn't want to meet them beforehand. The goat curry was served for about three days, none of that time was it refrigerated. It wasn't even cured meat. Just cooked meat, hanging out in a metal bowl with a plate covering it. We ate it. I'm still alive, so I guess it's ok. 

Walking through markets offered another opportunity to see meat in various slaughtered states. Pigs hung ass up draining blood, chickens being de-feathered, goats tied loosely to a pole waiting patiently for their fate. I swear if I didn't love meat so much I'd quit eating it after this experience.  

The typical dish in Nepal is Dal Bhat. Below is something I previously wrote about this meal:

"Everyone in Nepal eats Dal Bhat, which refers to a meal consisting of steamed rice (bhat), a cooked lentil soup (dal) and curried vegetables called Tarkari. This meal is eaten twice a day, generally mid-morning and early evening. The Dal may be cooked with onion, garlic, ginger, chili, tamarind, coriander, garam masala, cumin and/or turmeric. I've also had Dal Bhat with yogurt and some portion of pickled fermented very spicy veggies.

I ate this meal daily at the orphanage and loved it. I craved it for months after returning home, even though I ate it every single day for three months. In cities with a few more food options, the locals would still only order Dal Bhat. Could you imagine choosing to eat the same thing everyday, forever? I feel this speaks to the deliciousness of the meal. 

This is generally eaten with your right hand, as all meals are. Variations of flat breads are an great accompaniment to sop up all the yumminess. Dal Bhat Tarkari is a healthy, versatile meal."  

I still love Dal Bhat and I look forward to eating it again soon. In fact, I loved almost all the food I ate in Nepal. I did start to crave meat while I was there and, oddly enough, yellow mustard. I yearned for yellow mustard, not djion, not spicy, just plain old boring yellow mustard. I wanted to put it on everything, only yellow mustard was not available. I didn't see any type of mustard available anywhere.   I rarely eat mustard at home. I certainly don't crave it. It's not even my favorite condiment. I convinced myself I was clearly malnourished and it was manifesting as an intense mustard craving. To this day, I still believe that even with no evidence to prove it. I wonder what I'll crave this time around.  

There are no chain restaurants in Nepal. I never saw a McDonalds or Starbucks. Hell, there isn't even coffee in Nepal. Ok, that's an exaggeration, there is coffee available in touristy areas, but I hear it's not good. Besides, why waste your time drinking crappy coffee when so many great teas are available. Milk tea was my absolute favorite. It was essentially chai tea brewed in milk with sugar. It was heaven. I drank it every chance I had while away from the orphanage. The orphanage offered us tea each morning, but it was different. Their's was black tea seeped in water with sugar and salt added. It tasted so strange and initially I thought it was gross, then I started to tolerate it more. I never fully loved it and constantly thought about milk tea.

Lastly, I fell in love with lassi. Lassi is a drink made from yogurt, fruit, sugar and water. Now, at the time of ordering the first lassi, when the love affair began, I didn't know they were made using unfiltered water. Had I known this I probably would have avoided them, but the relationship began; I was hooked and I couldn't turn away from the sweet nectar. Mango is the best flavor ever!! I cannot wait to drink those again. 

At the orphanage I filtered every ounce of water I drank. This was such a laborious pain in my ass that I considered not doing it. Just at my weakest moment I'd see a child with explosive diarrhea and reconsider. Touristy places offered filtered water using a ceramic gravity filter and, as I've stated before, I did not get sick while I was there. This time I hope to have the same luck and to maintain my fastidious water drinking habits throughout my Asia travels. SE Asia makes me much more nervous than Nepal when it comes to food and water consumption, but I'm sure I'll have more to say about that while I am there. 

Who put the fun in fundraising??

I believe I have an estimated $1,900 left to raise before I leave for Nepal on September 14th. I greatly underestimated the amount of time, work and extreme stress this ordeal would cost me. Fundraising is hard. Duh. Yet, I thought it would be a breeze, perhaps because I was told every volunteer (almost) always raises all the money needed and I didn't really need to worry too much. Either way, I am eternally indebted and at a loss of words to fully express my gratitude to the people in my life donating and following my travels. I find myself walking around with a smile and I am filled with appreciation and awe. 

Recently a few people interested in volunteering with ARP next year have asked for advice on fundraising. While I do not consider myself an expert at this and I question whether I will raise all the funds necessary; I can share what I've learned over the last few months. 

First of all, I annoyingly posted an endless amount of links on Facebook, probably to the vexation of my FB friends. Upon initial posting the money came rolling in! This was a deceiving occurrence, eventually most people donated and there were several weeks of stagnation. Nothing happened and I realized I had to work way harder. Now, I'd like to think that if I wasn't a full time student, taking board exams and struggling with 12-hour class/clinic days, that this might not have been so laborious, but I doubt it. The stress with school combined with the self-created stress of worrying about fundraising really put a damper on life. Every experience was a new opportunity to ask people for money, but I didn't. I created a motivational song to help myself- to the annoying tune of "Call Me Maybe" (Hey, I just met you and this is crazy, but here's my number, donate? Maybe?) No, I never actually sang it aloud and would berate myself when I felt I missed an opportunity to ask for money. 

I grew up in the south, where social formalities are widely followed. You don't talk about money, politics or religion. Therefore, asking new acquaintances for money? Way too taboo. Additionally, I'm not a schmoozer, you know, the type that seem to instantly build a rapport at initial meetings. My friend Katherine once said, in an attempt to explain my personality to someone I had not met, "Terry's great, she'll insult you within the first five minutes of meeting her, but you end up loving her!" Not everyone would find this endearing, but I do because it's true. 

I also heard tales of others holding grudges against those friends and family members opting not to donate. This could be a huge downfall and an unnecessary burden. I'll admit I was disappointed when people I thought would contribute did not, but the overwhelming number of people that did donate erased all unsupported feelings. I do not have the space to hold resentments and I am sure those who did not donate have their reasons and it's not up to me to judge. Instead I hold great admiration and love for each person contributing- from those donating $5 to $500. 

For many weeks I was stuck in a terrible state of uncertainty on what would be the most cost effective was to raise money. I didn't want to throw a party, which I think would have cost too much of my own money. Not to mention the embarrassment if no one showed up! Furthermore, I am not from Portland, so I don't have the established networking base. My friends are sprawled across the country and the people I do know in town are students, like me. We don't have any money. 

My saving grace was a gift card donated from Le Pigeon. My partner is one of the sous chefs there, so I had an in. Not to mention the restaurant maintains an outstanding reputation in town and has some of the best food I've ever tasted. When I received the gift card I figured I better do a raffle, but I needed more stuff to give away. 

I consider myself rather shy with people I don't know. After the first time I met my partners parents, his mother described me as quiet, to which my partner said- "are you sure you met Terry?" Needless to say, I take a minute to warm up to people, after which I guess you can't get me to shut up. The task of going places, explaining what I needed and waiting for a response terrified me to the point of insomnia. I chose places I would like gifts from and ventured out to ask for contributions. To my surprise, places were extremely nice about it. Some handed me a gift card on the spot, others gave me business cards to the marketing departments. The best and most surprising came from those around me. Being in acupuncture school linked me to acupuncturists, massage therapists and even a chiropractor. Each willing to donate a treatment! 

The last bit was finding people to buy the raffle tickets. Campus was the perfect place. I avoided asking people at school for donations directly to the ARP because I figured they were in the same boat as me. Penniless. But the raffle tickets took off! 

I also included a pre-stamped envelope and a note about the ARP with my graduation announcements. At this moment I can report I have only received one of those envelopes back, but I compulsively check the mail daily. Lastly, my parents and friends have helped tremendously. My dad tells everyone he works with and my friends post on Facebook and share emails. 

These are just the bits I've done and I'm sure the other volunteers have equally helpful tidbits and stories. I hope those considering volunteering are not deterred by fundraising. It's a challenge and not always fun, but I absolutely love the feeling I have when I see new donations or tell people about this organization. This feeling outweighs all the stress and anxiety associated with asking for money. It's profound, warm-and-fuzzy like a hug, it's a feeling of being loved.  

If you would like to donate to the Acupuncture Relief Project: HERE

OR you can mail a check to: 

Acupuncture Relief Project

C/O Terry Atchley
925 NW Hoyt St #523
Portland, OR 97209

The end is the beginning.

When I was little I loved the last day of school. The excitement from the completion of another year, the sheer  anticipation of three whole months of nothing, the sound of Alice Cooper's "School's Out" always playing on my radio. College graduation was equally exciting, with feelings of pride and accomplishment thrown in the mix and topped off with several nights of heavy drinking. Ah, the days of a quick recovery from too much booze. I do miss those days. With undergrad I was scared of entering the real world, but maintained an idealistic stance that anything was possible. Then Hurricane Katrina happened and nothing seemed possible. My path took several turns, most of which were completely unexpected and truly amazing. I can gladly say I spent my 20s sometimes aimless, sometimes driven, but mostly doing what I wanted as I saw fit. 

This year, not only did I turn 30, but I'm also graduating from a demanding masters program. Life as I have known it will never be the same. The last three years have been humbling, uplifting, torturous and at times joyful. I certainly did not have nearly as much fun as I did in my formative educational years. I feel like I am waiting for it all to sink in. The debt owed. The uncertainty of my future. The endless to-do lists running through my head. I feel preoccupied with the immediate tasks of fundraising, preparing to leave the country, filing out paperwork and writing checks for licensing. After Nepal I am going to SE Asia for three months to relax, see some cool sights, eat some exotic foods and recover. But what about right now? Am I missing it? Is it all passing me by? The magnitude of what has been accomplished is lost on me. I mentally checked out from school weeks ago. I've devoted the little free time I've had scheming on ways to ask people for money, a task which takes me miles from my comfort zone but has prepared me (a little) for becoming a small business owner. I'm preparing for the next step but terrified to take it. 

This week I'm trying to stay in the moment. It's challenging. There is a little voice in the back kicking up a stink about things I should be doing, but I am choosing to ignore it. Right now, for as long a possible, I am focused on this great achievement. I encourage all of you who are graduating with me to do the same. Let's relish in this for just a second, then continue on with that pesky to-do list.   

Trekking!

I'm taking a class on public health and today the lecture was on AIDS/HIV. In Africa and parts of Asia, AIDS is endemic, meaning it's found regularly in the community. Most of the children at the orphanage told me their parents died from AIDS. I heard rumors the disease traveled to Nepal through sex trafficking in India. Many times this disease is co-infected with Hepatitis B and tuberculosis (TB). TB with AIDS is the leading cause of AIDS related deaths worldwide. Apparently there are several types of TB, including types that are extremely drug resistant (this past month a total drug resistant form was discovered in India). 

Places without proper healthcare tend to have populations misusing the tuberculosis drug treatments. The treatment can last up to 9 months and the costs are significant. What does this matter? Can acupuncture cure these diseases? Well, no. We can't cure immune-compromising diseases. Fortunately, one of the requirements while I am at the clinic is to educate the local staff by teaching a class on blood borne pathogens and clean needle technique. The staff will then be able to educate the local community.   

In regards to treatment for AIDS, acupuncture can help patients by boosting their immune system, relieve the symptoms of the disease, and reduce the side effects from the medications. Although, in developing countries, I doubt patients diagnosed with HIV/AIDS receive the drug cocktails available in more developed countries. Acupuncture offers low cost treatment for various diseases, in contrast to western medicine which can use high cost medications to treat illness. Ideally, using eastern and western medicine would be the most effective form of treatment. At the clinic we are opening in Nepal, these patients are able to receive treatment free of cost. They can come every day, every week, for the entire time we are there and not pay a cent (or rupee as it were). 

I've been getting vaccines over the last few weeks, but diseases like TB, Hepatitis C and AIDS do not have a vaccine. I push these scary facts to the back of my head. But, having anything traumatic happen in a third world country is way worse than if it were to happen at home. I don't say this to be morose, but it is something to take into consideration. I am actively choosing to put myself in an at-risk population in order to help those who do not have access to healthcare. I am doing this because I want to. I can close my eyes at night and picture the faces of the children, the homeless begging and I want to help. Acupuncture is my medium and fundraising is how I will get there. Please consider making a donation. If you already donated, ask someone you know to donate. 

Donate HERE!

If the ARP website is having glitches, cash and check donations are always accepted!! Feel free to mail donations to:

Acupuncture Relief Project

C/O Terry Atchley

925 NW Hoyt St # 523

Portland, OR 97209

Checks can be made out to The Acupuncture Relief Project.

On to my favorite activity- trekking! The clinic will close for several days in honor of the Diwali festival, therefore we have time to trek in the Langtang region. I do not know much about this trek, but what I do know is we'd start at 1670m and hike up to 5050m, the trek will last about 10-days and go into the Himal region bordering Tibet. The Langtang valley is sandwiched between the main Himalayan range to the north and a slightly lower range of snowy peaks to the south. Langtang Lirung (7246m) dominates the valley to the north; Gang Chhenpo (6388m) and Naya Kanga ri (5846m) lie to the south; and Dorje Lakpa (6966m) protects the East end of the Valley. This high and isolated region is inhabited by Tamangs whose religious practices, language and dress are much more similar to those of Tibet than to the traditions of their cousins in the Middle Hills. By the way, this trek is paid for out-of-pocket, no donations are used to support the staff while the clinic is closed. 

Previously, I've hiked the Annapurna Circuit. This trail is a loop around the three Annapurna Mountains and generally takes people between 19 to 22 days to complete. Sadly, I hiked it in 14-days. I wish I had a good reason for plowing through this amazingly beautiful area of the world, but I don't. I hiked with someone who cared about speed and instead of speaking my peace, I harbored resentment and just kept going- furious the entire time. I will have three weeks at the end of my time in Nepal, I am considering re-hiking the circuit alone and at a pace which makes me happy. 

The Annapurna Circuit is considered one of the best treks in the world. I find this to be true.  The trek goes through four regions: Lamjung, Manang, Mustang and Myagdi. Lamjung and Myagdi are in the lower elevations, which are predominantly Hindu. The Manang and Mustang regions are in the higher elevations and predominantly Tibetan Buddhist.  The people of the Mustang region relate more to Tibet and this region has actually been part of Tibet through periods in history. There are some regions in the Mustang area that were not open to westerners until 2005! 

The trek itself was like nothing I'd ever done before. The trails link all the villages and currently a road is being built. The road is detrimental to the hikers and a catch-22. The hikers hate walking the dusty road while lazy travelers zoom by in jeeps. But the road will make access to these areas easier for locals and will increase the tourism to the villages whose economy is based on travelers. Luckily, not all of the trail is turning into a road and there are times when seeing these mountains for the first time I felt like a new explorer. Often when I hike my mind clears of the muck, which is probably why I love doing it so much. I wonder what the first people to ever see these areas thought and what much of the world looked like before people came and changed the terrain. I loved hiking in the Himalayas because not much of the terrain has changed, at least in the higher elevations. Even the villages I walked through look as if they haven't changed since they were built. The one thing I found interesting was all the German bakeries popping up. Nothing is better than a fresh baked chocolate croissant at 14,000 feet. 

I look forward to hiking the new areas of Nepal I've never seen before. Please take a moment to donate to the ARP and thanks for reading. 

Also, here is a short 3-minute video about what I'll be doing in Nepal!

Video!

Flights and festivals

I'd like to begin this weeks blog entry with gratitude. To all of you who read the last entry: Thank you very much! Please remember to donate or encourage others to do so! Even $5 dollars makes a difference, I promise. I'm grateful for any amount, but if you felt like donating $500+ you'll be my personal hero.

Donate HERE!

This week I'd like to include a few memories about arriving in Nepal and some basic historical information about the country's festivals.

Lately, I've been having a difficult time wrapping my brain around this trip. I have a point of reference in regards to arrival and the bombardment of immediate stimulation, but I lack more knowledge of what to expect work-wise. I took a roundabout way of getting to Nepal the first time. I'd heard from a friend that Qatar Airlines was the best. Therefore, I decided to fly from Portland to NYC, NYC to Doha, Doha to Kathmandu. Yes, this was almost the longest way to get there, but the airline was amazing and I was able to fly over the crazy man-made palm tree shaped islands in the Middle East and spend the night in Qatar. So, I found the arduous flight justifiable.

This is me sleeping in the airport during my layover...

As the last leg of the flight began the descent into Kathmandu, the Himalayan mountains were hiding in clouds, so I focused on the city below. The lower we descended the more I realized I had no idea what I was getting into. Cows leisurely roamed across the runways, while tuk tuks overfilled with people zoomed past pedestrians on discombobulated roads. A thick layer of smog settled low in the valley as the plane landed and I slowly walked into a rustic airport.

I don't recall much of customs, but I remember walking out thinking it was pretty light. The shock came outside when I was accosted by hundreds of taxi drivers asking me in broken english where I was going and picking up my bags before I could answer. When I told them firmly no, another groups would come over and try. Bartering is common, prices are never what's listed and Nepalese expect you to negotiate. I hated this part. I'm not a good at it and in a country where people have nothing, I'd rather pay the asking price and be done with it. But, I'm also a cheap traveler who doesn't like spending more on transportation or lodging. I finally settled on a taxi, told him where I needed to go and set off on the first of many terrifying rides. This time I'm traveling to Nepal with two other ARP volunteers and a member of the organization is meeting us at the Kathmandu airport. I'm glad I won't have to choose a taxi.

This is about where my knowledge of what to expect ends. I know we will spend a day or two in Kathmandu to recover from jet-lag and sightsee, then it's an abyss. For someone who spends 90% of her brainpower on daydreaming, I struggle to come up with a scenario of what this experience will be like. What will all the members of our team be like? Will we get along well? What will the interpreters and patients be like? What will be the most common ailment? Will I know how to treat it? And those aren't even half the questions running through my head. It can be overwhelming at times, but that's what makes this adventure exciting, new and invigorating. These are the feelings I live for with travel.

During our time in Kogate, the Dasain (or Dashain) and Diwali (or Deepawali) festivals will occur. The Dasain Festival is a 15-day celebration commemorating the victories of the god and goddesses over demons, symbolizing victory of good over evil. The first nine days of the festival symbolize the battle between the goddess Durga and the demon Mahishasura. On the tenth day Durga defeats Mahishasura and is worshipped as the divine mother goddess. Each day patrons pay homage to various forms of the Divine Goddess. It is believed if she is worshipped properly and is pleased then good luck will happen, but if she is neglected misfortune will occur. This year the festival will begin on October 5th and complete on October 19th. I hope our clinic will be able to participate in some way, I can't handle misfortune from a displeased goddess.
 

The Diwali Festival is known as the Festival of Lights and generally falls between mid-October and mid-November. Diwali is one of the most important festivals of the year for Hindus and is considered an official holiday in Nepal and India. Diwali translates to "row of lamps" and part of the celebration involves lighting heaps of small clay lamps filled with oil to signify the triumph of good over evil. These lamps burn through the night to invite the goddess Lakshmi. Diwali marks the end of the harvest season and Lakshmi is honored with puja, which is an expression of honor, worship and devotional attention. Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth and prosperity, her blessings are invoked for a good year ahead.



The Diwali festival maintains a spiritual significance due to the "awareness of the inner light". Hindu mythology maintains a belief of something beyond the physical body and mind that is pure and eternal, called Atman. The celebration of Diwali as the "victory of good over evil" referring to the light of higher knowledge dispelling all ignorance that masks one's true nature as the unchanging, infinite, immanent and transcendent reality. With this awakening comes compassion and awareness of the oneness of all things. This brings anand (joy or peace). Diwali is the celebration of inner light, similar to the celebration of the birth of a physical being. Essentially, it's a long birthday celebration of your inner light.

Both of these festivals occurred during my time at the orphanage. The children stayed home from school for over a week for both festivals. During Diwali I was forced to walk to each house in the neighborhood with the children cheering behind me and beating drums. After the children knocked on the front door I was supposed to dance, while families put money in a bowl for the kids. This was such an awkward and hilarious experience. Men dance much more than women in Nepal and there was a choreographed dance I didn't know. My impromptu dance moves were mostly just laughed at and the children refused to dance along side me. I hope I don't have to endure this again!

During the Diwali festival our clinic will close for several days. At that time, we are invited to go on a trek in the Langtang area. This is an area of the Himalayas northeast of Kathmandu. The trek lasts about 7 days and climbs up to about 16,000 feet. But, I'll include more on my favorite subject, trekking, next week. So stay tuned and thanks for reading.